Published May 2008

Dogs & Cats

(page 78)

A contractor planning a treatment system repair for a kennel looks for tips to break down a different breed of waste.

Any tips for treating animal waste at a kennel?

Question:

I am designing a repair for a Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals International kennel. There’s much I don’t know, so perhaps some of you can answer some questions for me. I understand the need for sediment and silt control, and for greater retention time to allow for dog waste breaking down more slowly than the human variety. I am not sure how much retention time to allow for. I am also considering aeration to speed up decomposition before the ATU. What form should that take? The kennel uses calcium hypochlorite for disinfection. It is pretty common as a means of killing bacteria after treatment, but how do I neutralize it to prevent it killing the good bugs in the tanks and ATU? My last question is, what is a good number for a design flow? I have three from three different agencies, and they range from 5 gallons per animal all the way to 50. I am inclined to go big anyway, but it would be nice to get some more accurate numbers.

Answer:

First, ask the customer. There is a vast network of SPCAs and your customer is not the first SPCA/shelter to have encountered these challenges. Ask them to post your question online. There may be a dog breeder’s association and there is always the American Kennel Club. Talk to the veterinary colleges and animal husbandry/ag industry colleges at your state university. You can access them through the county Extension agent. Even a local big-box pet store can offer some insights.

Dog feces has different makeup and breakdown characteristics, but you will encounter other challenges as well. Kennel wash-down water has a large volume of animal hair, which brings with it other breakdown and clog issues. Talk to the ATU manufacturer. Let them tell you how to pretreat the material you deliver to their treatment device. They know the capabilities of their technology, so let them help you.

How to avoid a freezing drip system in Vermont

Question:

I’m dealing with a contractor who is installing an effluent drip system. It’s his first and mine that I am aware of in northern Vermont. We do not install septic systems, only service them. My personal feeling is the system will freeze in the winter. The distribution manifold will be buried only 18 inches and the drip tubing will be less. Any input would be appreciated to help my customer prevent problems in the winter.

I did discuss having 2-inch Styrofoam insulation on top of the mound, but the contractor did not like that option due to limited evaporation from the sun. There are trees all around and limited sun exposure. He is book smart, not hands-on smart.

Answer:

A septic heater may or may not work. The only way it would help would be to try and keep the effluent warmer before it goes out to the drip system. For example, typical installation on a mound system is over the lift station, keeping the water warmer before it gets pumped out to the mound. The only other option would be to put hay and straw over the drip lines, then cover it with plastic to prevent the straw from getting wet and losing its R-value.

How about those tiny bubbles in the tank?

Question:

I was pumping last night and noticed a continuous steam of bubbles coming from the bottom of the tank. Obviously there is a crack in the bottom. I don’t know what is causing the bubbles, but I guess it could be natural gas. My questions are: 1. Any ideas on what is bubbling? 2. Assuming I can get it clean, can we pour in a few inches of concrete to fix it? 3. If we just leave it alone, should we expect it to settle leading to replacement anyway?

Answers:

Looking at question two, I know a New Mexico state inspector who allowed almost that exact remedy.

***

We had this same problem in northern New Jersey. With a permit for an alteration to the system, we were able to fix the bottom of the tank with concrete. It reduced the size from 1,000 to about 900 gallons. No big deal for a two-bedroom house. This was a cost-effective solution for the homeowner. Not to mention that a small concrete truck made it so simple.

***

The bubbles may be a result of fermentation of waste that has seeped under the tank through the crack. I have seen this in aerobic tanks where the aerator fails and in cesspools on industrial pig farms when the lining at the bottom used to prevent ground contamination gets a tear in it. I doubt it will cause any problems, but I would think that a little hydraulic cement would fix it.